My Neck of the Woods—Adventures from the Northeast of Scotland (and Just a wee tad Beyond) NE792
- Brooke McKinnell
- 4 hours ago
- 11 min read
I grew up in Aberdeen, where the streets shine silver in the rain and the sea’s never too far away. This corner of Scotland — the northeast — is where I’ve spent most of my days wandering, camera in one hand, snacks in the other, chasing waves, castles, forests, and the kind of views that stop you in your tracks.
From Bow Fiddle Rock crashing into the sea at Portknockie to the stillness of Loch Muick tucked beneath Lochnagar, this place is full of quiet magic — the kind you only find when you know where to look. And while the northeast is my stomping ground, sometimes I’ll stray a little further. Because once you start exploring here, it’s hard to stop.
This blog is a mix of fave spots, spontaneous detours, and places I think more people should know about. If you love rugged coastlines, proper walks, dramatic skies, and the kind of towns where everyone still says hello, you're in the right place.
This journey pulls together 40 incredible stops, covering around 792 km, and if you drove it all in one go, it’d take about 16 hours and 47 minutes — though trust me, you’ll want to take your time. Some spots are well-known, others tucked away down back roads or hidden behind a line of trees — but they all share that same quiet magic that makes the northeast unforgettable.
Most of it sticks to the heart of the region, but every so often I’ve wandered just beyond — because sometimes, the best views are just past the edge of the map.
This blog is my way of sharing it all: the winding drives, the “pull over now!” moments, and the places I keep going back to. If you like rugged coastlines, proper walks, local gems, and the kind of places that make you feel small in the best way — welcome to my neck of the woods.
Stop 1: Fitty (Footdee), Aberdeen
We’re kicking things off in Fitty (officially Footdee), a hidden gem tucked at the end of Aberdeen’s beach and right beside the harbour. Once a 19th-century fishing village, it’s now a quirky pocket of tiny cottages, colourful sheds, and narrow lanes that feel like something out of a storybook. It’s quiet, full of character, and perfect for a wander before hitting the road. Watch the waves roll in, catch the sea breeze, and soak up a side of the city that most people miss.
Stop 2: Old Aberdeen
Just a short drive (or even a walk) from the city centre, Old Aberdeen feels like stepping into a different century. Cobbled streets, archways, and grand old buildings tell the story of a place that’s been around since the 12th century. Here you’ll find the beautiful St Machar’s Cathedral, with its twin towers and medieval charm, as well as the historic heart of the University of Aberdeen, founded in 1495. The whole area has a calm, scholarly feel – especially on a quiet morning – and it’s one of the most atmospheric corners of the city.
Stop 3: Seaton Park
Right next door is Seaton Park, a lush green space perfect for stretching your legs. You’ll pass flower beds, tree-lined paths, and (if you're lucky) some very sociable Highland cows in the nearby fields. It’s an ideal picnic spot or place to just pause and take in the view – especially looking back toward the spires of St Machar’s from the riverside. Peaceful, picturesque, and full of local life.
Stop 4: Balmedie Beach
Just north of Aberdeen, Balmedie Beach is one of those spots that locals love and visitors often miss. Wide, windswept sands stretch for miles, backed by towering dunes and sea grass that shift with the breeze. It’s the perfect place for a quiet walk, a paddle, or simply standing still and letting the sea air clear your head. The beach changes with the light — dramatic on stormy days, golden and endless on sunny ones. There’s a handy boardwalk from the car park, and plenty of space to roam. If you’re after that big “northeast coast” feeling — raw, open, and wild — this is it.
Stop 5: Tolquhon Castle
A short drive inland from Balmedie, Tolquhon Castle is a beautifully preserved 16th-century ruin known for its impressive Renaissance architecture. Built by Sir William Forbes, it features ornate stonework, a twin-towered gatehouse, and hidden listening holes used by the laird. You can wander the courtyard, climb the battlements for countryside views, and imagine life centuries ago in the kitchens and prison pit. It’s quiet, photogenic, and a real highlight for history lovers. Open seasonally, with parking and a visitor centre—perfect for a peaceful stop on your route.
Stop 6: Newburgh Seal Beach
Just a bit north of Aberdeenshire’s coastline, Newburgh Seal Beach is a peaceful spot famous for its seal colony. On a calm day, you might spot seals sunbathing on the rocks or swimming close to shore. It’s a lovely place to pause, enjoy fresh sea air, and take in the rugged beauty of the northeast coast. Please keep dogs on leash!
Stop 7: Collieston
This tiny fishing village, Collieston, feels like a step back in time. With its quaint harbour, colourful cottages, and calm beaches, it’s a favourite for locals looking to escape the city buzz. Grab a pasty, watch the boats bobbing, and enjoy the slower pace of life here.
Stop 8: Slains Castle
Perched dramatically on cliffs near Cruden Bay, Slains Castle is a ruined fortress with a wild history and breathtaking sea views. It’s famously linked to Bram Stoker, who visited here and drew inspiration for Dracula — the castle’s imposing silhouette is said to have influenced his vision of Dracula’s castle. The rugged coastline and eerie ruins make it a must-see for lovers of history, literature, and a bit of spooky atmosphere. Don’t miss the views over the North Sea from the cliff paths nearby.
Stop 9: Bullers of Buchan
A dramatic natural wonder on the Aberdeenshire coast, the Bullers of Buchan is a collapsed sea cave forming a massive, swirling chasm. Watch waves crash through the narrow opening, sending sprays high into the air — it’s a stunning spot for photos and a reminder of the sea’s power. Please be careful when visiting here. We have had a few people seriously injure themselves here.
Stop 10: Peterhead Prison Museum
Once Scotland’s largest and most notorious prison, Peterhead Prison operated from 1888 until 2013. It housed some of the country’s most dangerous criminals and was known for its strict regime and high walls. Today, the museum offers a gripping look at prison life through the decades, with original cells and stories that bring the past vividly to life.
Stop 11: New Aberdour Beach
A quiet beach with a heroic story, New Aberdour Beach is where Grace Darling’s northeast counterpart made her mark. Legend tells of a brave local woman who risked everything to save sailors from a shipwreck off the coast. Today, the beach is peaceful — perfect for a reflective walk and a moment to honour courage against the odds.
Stop 12: Pennan
This tiny village is best known as the filming location for the cult classic film Local Hero. With its charming red-roofed cottages hugging the cliffs, Pennan feels like stepping into a movie set — and in many ways, it is. The famous red telephone box overlooking the sea is a must-see and a favourite photo spot.
Stop 13: Crovie
Just a stone’s throw from Pennan, Crovie is one of Scotland’s smallest and most picturesque fishing villages. Built on a narrow strip of land between the cliffs and the sea, its tightly packed cottages tell tales of generations of fishermen and their families. It’s a quiet, timeless place that’s perfect for soaking up coastal history.
Stop 14: Tarlair Outdoor Swimming Pool
Once a bustling open-air seawater pool right on the cliffs near Macduff, Tarlair Pool was a favourite local spot for decades. Though it’s currently closed, there are hopeful plans to reopen this historic bathing place, restoring its charm and offering a unique seaside swimming experience once again. Keep an eye out — this local gem could soon be making a big splash again. However there is a cafe now open here and we are just awaiting the refurbishment of the open air pool itself. To follow the progress join https://www.facebook.com/BM2021future/posts/the-friends-of-tarlair-have-announced-that-the-cafe-at-tarlair-will-soft-open-fr/1067744638732798/
Stop 15: Portsoy Harbour
Portsoy Harbour is a charming spot famous not just for its fishing heritage but also as a filming location for Peaky Blinders. Wander along the quaint harbour, watch the boats bobbing in the water, and don’t miss grabbing some delicious local ice cream — it’s a real treat after a day of exploring.
Stop 16: Findlater Castle
Perched on a cliff overlooking the Moray Firth near Portknockie, Findlater Castle is a rugged, atmospheric ruin with a powerful sense of history. Dating back to the 13th century, this once-fortified stronghold played a key role in the region’s medieval conflicts. Though much of the castle is now a shell, you can still explore the remains of its curtain walls and towers, all while enjoying sweeping views over the sea and coastline. It’s the perfect stop for anyone who loves a mix of history and wild, windswept scenery.
Stop 17: Cullen
Nestled along the Moray Firth, the charming town of Cullen is famous far beyond its size—mainly thanks to its signature dish, Cullen Skink. This rich, smoky soup made from smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions is a must-try for any visitor. Beyond the food, Cullen boasts beautiful coastal views, a quaint harbour, and a friendly, laid-back vibe. Whether you’re stopping for a bowl of soup or just to take in the seaside scenery, Cullen offers a perfect taste of northeast Scotland’s hospitality.
Stop 18: The Three Creeks Shore (Portknockie)
Just a short drive from Portsoy, The Three Creeks Shore in Portknockie offers stunning coastal views and peaceful walking trails. Known for its rugged cliffs and quiet beauty, it’s a perfect spot to soak in the raw power of the North Sea and maybe spot some local wildlife. Great if you like to collect sea glass and pottery.
Stop 19: Bow Fiddle Rock
One of the northeast’s most iconic natural landmarks, Bow Fiddle Rock near Portknockie is a massive sea stack shaped like the tip of a fiddle bow. It’s a spectacular place for photography, especially at sunrise or sunset, and a must-see for anyone visiting the coastline here.
Stop 20: Sculptor’s Cave, Lossiemouth
A hidden gem along the coast, Sculptor’s Cave is famous for its ancient Pictish carvings etched into the rock walls. The cave sits at the end of a lovely coastal walk, making it a perfect mix of history and fresh sea air — a quiet spot to reflect on Scotland’s mysterious past.
Stop 21: Bennachie
Dominating the landscape, Bennachie is a range of hills known for its ancient Pictish hillforts and standing stones. One of the most famous is the Maiden Stone, steeped in folklore involving tragic love and ancient justice. Bennachie is a place where history and legend meet, perfect for hiking and storytelling.
Stop 22: Grampian Transport Museum
For something a bit different, the Grampian Transport Museum is a must-visit. Packed with vintage cars, motorcycles, and historic vehicles, it offers a fun dive into Scotland’s transport history — perfect for families or anyone who loves a good mechanical story. https://www.gtm.org.uk/
Stop 23: Craigievar Castle
Straight out of a fairy tale, Craigievar Castle is a stunning pink-hued tower house famous for its turrets and whimsical design. Built in the 17th century, it inspired Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle and feels like stepping into a storybook. Inside, you’ll find beautifully preserved interiors and plenty of charm.
Stop 24: Burn o’ Vat
A dramatic natural gorge carved by glacial meltwaters, the Burn o’ Vat is a striking example of northeast Scotland’s unique geology. This deep, rocky chasm was formed over thousands of years and offers a fascinating glimpse into the power of nature’s forces — perfect for walkers and geology buffs alike.
Stop 25: Loch Muick
Nestled in the Cairngorms, Loch Muick is a tranquil mountain loch surrounded by towering hills and peaceful trails. It’s a favourite spot for hiking, picnics. Walk the mountains or stroll the path by the loch.
Stop 26: Prince Albert’s Cairn
Near the shores of Loch Muick, Prince Albert’s Cairn is a simple yet poignant monument marking where Queen Victoria’s beloved husband was said to have been laid to rest temporarily. It’s a quiet spot steeped in royal history and natural beauty.Distance: 5 km (3 miles) return. Elevation: ~320 m gain (to 442 m), Time: 1.5–3 hours. Difficulty: Moderate — steep and can be muddy.
Stop 27: Balmoral Castle and Ballater
Balmoral Castle needs little introduction — the Scottish home of the Royal Family, nestled in the heart of Royal Deeside. With its striking stone walls and sprawling estate, it’s a symbol of tradition and heritage. Nearby, the charming village of Ballater offers cosy cafés, shops, and a warm welcome to visitors exploring the area.
Stop 28: Linn of Dee
A beautiful gorge where the River Dee cuts through ancient woodland, Linn of Dee offers peaceful walking trails and stunning waterfalls. The nearby visitor centre makes it easy to explore this scenic part of Royal Deeside.
Stop 29: Dess Waterfall
Nestled in the beautiful Angus countryside, Dess Waterfall is a serene cascade surrounded by lush woodland. It’s a peaceful spot that offers a refreshing break and a chance to connect with nature’s gentle rhythms. Ideal for a quiet walk and some stunning photos.
Stop 30: Crathes Castle
Famous for its stunning gardens and rich history, Crathes Castle is said to be haunted by the Green Lady, a gentle spirit who watches over the castle. With its striking turrets and beautiful grounds, it’s a must-see stop steeped in mystery and charm.
Stop 31: Scolty Hill
A popular hill near Banchory, Scolty Hill offers panoramic views over Royal Deeside. At its summit stands a memorial tower dedicated to General Burnett of the Gordon Highlanders. It’s a great spot for a refreshing hike with rewarding vistas.
Stop 32: Clachnaben
A distinctive granite hill, Clachnaben is a popular hiking spot offering fantastic views across Aberdeenshire. Its name means “Rock of the Mountain,” and it’s an iconic landmark for locals and visitors alike.
Stop 33: Glen Esk
One of the five Angus glens, Glen Esk is a remote, picturesque valley with rugged hills and peaceful rivers. It’s perfect for those wanting to escape into nature and explore traditional Highland landscapes.
Stop 34: Mount Keen
The most easterly Munro, Mount Keen stands at 939 meters and offers some of the best views in the area. A favorite among walkers, the climb is rewarding with sweeping vistas of the Cairngorms and surrounding glens. This is a beautiful walk in, you can stop at the queens well or continue up this mountain with all its false summits and splendor.
Stop 35: Arbroath Cliffs
The dramatic Arbroath Cliffs offer breathtaking views over the North Sea and are a fantastic spot for coastal walks and birdwatching. The sheer drop and rugged beauty make this a must-see for nature lovers exploring the northeast coast. Arbroath cliff tours offer cave tours and kayaking adventures for added excitement. https://www.arbroathclifftours.com/
Stop 36: St Cyrus Beach
St Cyrus Beach is a beautiful stretch of sandy coastline backed by dunes and nature reserves. It’s a peaceful spot for walks, picnics, and spotting local wildlife, especially during the spring and summer months.
Stop 37: Den Finella Waterfall
Den Finella Waterfall is a stunning cascade tucked away in a rugged gorge. It’s important to note that accessing this waterfall is dangerous unless you’re very experienced at climbing down rock faces with ropes. According to local folklore, Den Finella was a noblewoman who avenged the death of her father by assassinating a tyrant — her spirit is said to haunt the falls.
Stop 38: Crawton Waterfall and RSPB Fowlsheugh
Close by is Crawton Waterfall, another scenic cascade set amid wild coastal landscapes. The area is perfect for nature walks and enjoying the fresh sea air. A top spot for birdwatching,
the nearby RSPB Fowlsheugh reserve is home to thousands of seabirds nesting on its cliffs, making it one of the UK’s most important seabird colonies.
Stop 39: Dunnotar Castle
Perched on a dramatic cliff overlooking the North Sea near Stonehaven, Dunnotar Castle is one of Scotland’s most spectacular ruins. It’s steeped in history, legend, and sheer drama. The castle’s crumbling walls and towers offer fantastic views and plenty of stories — including its role in protecting the Scottish crown jewels during the 17th century.
Stop 40: Stonehaven Harbour
Finish your journey in Stonehaven, a lively town with a charming harbour, seafood restaurants, and a friendly vibe. It’s a perfect place to relax, enjoy fresh fish and chips, and watch the boats come and go after a day of exploring the northeast coast.
Stop 41 a wee surprise for dog lovers
Husky Haven, Stonehaven
Looking for something a bit different? At Husky Haven near Stonehaven, you can meet a whole pack of fluffy, friendly huskies and even try your hand at dog sledding (yes, really!). It’s a unique way to connect with these incredible animals and enjoy some fun outdoor adventure — perfect for families, dog lovers, or anyone craving a memorable experience. https://www.huskyhaven.co.uk/ to book.
I hope you will enjoy this route, feel free to ask me anything. Happy travels folks!
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